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No Shortcuts to the Top
Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks
by 
Ed Viesturs
David Roberts
Stephen Hoye
  
Publisher: Books on Tape
Subject(s):  Biography & Autobiography
Nonfiction
Language(s):  English
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Format Information

OverDrive WMA Audiobook Checked Out - Place a hold
Available copies:   0 (1 patron(s) on waiting list)
Library copies:   1
File size:   182113 KB
ISBN:   9780739349328
Release date:   Nov 07, 2006

Description

A breathtaking audiobook by the first American to climb the fourteen highest mountains in the world. For eighteen years Ed Viesturs pursued climbing's holy grail: to stand atop the world's fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, without the aid of bottled oxygen. But NO SHORTCUTS TO THE TOP is as much about the man who would become the first American to achieve that goal as it is about his stunning quest. A preternaturally cautious climber who once turned back 300 feet from the top of Everest, Viesturs has an unyielding motto, “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”

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Excerpts

From the book

...

CHAPTER 1
Self
--Arrest

At last things seemed to be going our way. Inside our Camp III tent, at 24,300 feet, Scott Fischer and I crawled into our sleeping bags and turned off our headlamps. The next day, we planned to climb up to Camp IV, at 26,000 feet. On the day after, we would get up in the middle of the night, put on all our clothing, grab our gear and a little food, and set off for the summit of K2, at 28,250 feet the second-highest mountain in the world. From Camp IV, the 2,250 vertical feet of snow, ice, and rock that would stretch between us and the top could take as long as twelve hours to climb, since neither Scott nor I was using supplemental oxygen. We had agreed that if we hadn't reached the summit by two P.M., we'd turn around--no matter what.

  • It was the evening of August 3, 1992. Fifty-four days earlier, we had started our hike in to base camp on the Baltoro Glacier, which we had reached on June 21. Before the trip, even in my most pessimistic scenario I had never imagined that it could take us more than six weeks just to get in position for a summit push. But this expedition had seemed jinxed from the start--by hideous weather, by minor but consequential accidents, by an almost chaotic state of disorganization within our team.

    As usual in the midst of a several-day summit push at high altitude, Scott and I were too keyed up to fall asleep. We tossed and turned in our sleeping bags. Then suddenly, around ten P.M., the radio in our tent crackled to life. I turned on my headlamp, grabbed the walkie--talkie, and listened intently. The voice on the radio was that of Thor Kieser, another American, calling from Camp IV, 1,700 feet above us. "Hey, guys," Thor blurted out, his voice tense with alarm. "Chantal and Alex aren't back. I don't know where they are."

    I sighed in pure frustration. In the beam of my headlamp, I saw a kindred expression on Scott's face. Without exchanging a word, we knew what this meant. Our summit push was now on indefinite hold. Instead of moving up to Camp IV to get into position, the next day we would find ourselves caught up in a search--and possibly a rescue. The jinx was alive and well.

    On August 3, as Scott and I had made the long haul from base camp up to Camp III (a grueling 7,000 feet of altitude gain), Thor Kieser, Chantal Mauduit, and Aleksei Nikiforov had gone for the summit from Camp IV. Chantal, a very ambitious French alpinist, had originally been part of a Swiss team independent from ours. When all of her partners had thrown in the towel on the mountain and left for home, she had stayed on (illegally, in terms of the permit system) and in effect grafted herself onto our group. She was now the only woman on the mountain. Aleksei--or Alex, as we called him--was a Ukrainian member of the Russian quintet that made up the core of our team.

    That morning, Alex and Thor had set out at five--thirty a.m., Chantal not until seven. These starting times were much later than Scott and I would have been comfortable with, but the threesome had been delayed because of no shortcuts to the top high winds. Remarkably, climbing without bottled oxygen, Chantal caught up with the men and surged past them. Struggling in the thin air, Thor turned back a few hundred feet below the summit, unwilling to get caught out in the dark. Chantal summited at five p.m., becoming only the fourth woman ever to climb K2. Alex topped out only after dark, at seven p.m.

    The proverbial two p.m. turn-around time isn't an iron--clad rule on K2 (or on Everest, for that matter), but to reach the summit as late as Chantal and Alex did was asking for trouble. And trouble had now arrived.

    On the morning...
  •  

    Reviews

    AudioFile Magazine...
    A legend in mountain-climbing lore, Viesturs has summited Everest six times and was present in 1996 when three guides and several clients died in the tragedy made famous in INTO THIN AIR. Here Viesturs details his childhood in (flat) Illinois, his veterinary studies in Washington state, and his quest to climb the world's 14 peaks of 8,000 meters or more, a feat he calls "Endeavor 8000." Stephen Hoye zeros in on the focused but unflappable Viesturs. His voice glides over Nepalese names, and he describes avalanches, whiteouts, and even fatal accidents without overdramatizing. The Everest debacle, however, is recounted with a faster pace and more emotion; the lost guides were his friends and colleagues. J.B.G. (c) AudioFile 2007, Portland, Maine
     
    Jon Krakauer...
    "Ed Viesturs is not merely one of our strongest mountaineers; he's also one of the most remarkable. He's demonstrated that it's possible to climb the world's highest peaks without taking reckless chances, and without sacrificing one's honor or integrity. He has never hesitated to help other climbers in need, even when it meant putting himself in danger or sacrificing his own opportunity to achieve a summit. Ed, simply put, is a genuine American hero."
     
    Aron Ralston, author of Between a Rock and a Hard Place...
    "From the drama of the peaks, to the struggle of making a living as a professional climber, to the basic how-tos of life at 26,000 feet, No Shortcuts to the Top is fascinating reading."
     
    Jim Whittaker, first American to climb Mount Everest...
    "Ed Viesturs--the first American to climb all fourteen 8,000 meter peaks without bottled oxygen--is an animal. A human animal blessed with enormous strength balanced by intelligence, honesty, and a heart of gold. And besides, HE IS A NICE GUY.
    This is a great read for those of us who climb, those who want to learn to climb and live to tell about it, and those who like great adventures."
     
    Mike Holmgren, coach of the Seattle Seahawks...
    "Ed Viesturs was an inspiration to me personally and to the Seahawks team in 2005. I highly recommend reading this account of one of America's heroes."
     

    About the Author

    ED VIESTURS still climbs and seeks out new adventures. He lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington, with his wife and three children. DAVID ROBERTS is a veteran author of mountaineering books, including On the Ridge Between Life and...

    Digital Rights Information

    OverDrive WMA Audiobook
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    All copies of this title, including those transferred to portable devices and other media, must be deleted/destroyed at the end of the lending period.